Modding Your Panther

I know many prefer to mod their Vic or Marquis, some even a Town Car. You joined a site like CVN or PBB, or simply found threads through google and see people talking about mods or posting build or mod threads. Let me tell you despite how common these cars are, they aren't really ever looked at from a performance standpoint and those of us who see the possibility aren't as common in the community compared to those who just want to drive the car, has it as a winter beater, wreck and otherwise commit herecy by using it in demo derbys, or perhaps the worst offense; donking one out.  We should be ever thankful for the likes of ADTR for giving us the opertunity. You'll see most of what's out there is pricey. We are a nichè folk and in the grand scheme the little that's out there isn't too much more in price than other cars. A set of performance RCAs for a Mustang isn't $50 because people love them more for performance. As such; for somebody wanting to mod their car need to plan accordingly and probably consider prices. Possibly just buy what you can and stockpile before putting anything on. The cheapest performance mod I know of is the ARP Watts-Link stud at $150. Most things are roughly $300+. If you're poor like me, consider prices and prepare to eat more ramen.

So here's my idea for beginner mods:

• Wheels and Tires- They all came with meh tires and buying a car used, there's probably a cheaper than of the line set on there. For P71 owners, we know the Eagle RSAs are not the hot ticket in reality, especially in rain. If all you can muster is tires, get tires. For those with a bit more money; get a set of aluminum wheels. Really the 82lbs steelie and tire combo is not screaming performance. Mustang wheels are usually cheap and a good start until something better and lighter can be got. Factory Mustang wheels aren't that light, probaly 18-25lbs a wheel, but they are lighter than the steelies. You might think about LX Sport wheels or Maurader wheels, but they may be not only hard to find, but pricey.
• Trak-Loc- Not all these cars come with a limited slip(I've even heard some LX Sports were pegleggers...wtf) and on the cheap a unit can be sourced from any 8.8 axle equiped Ford rwd or 4wd vehicle. Along with this, you can look what cars had a trak-loc and what their gear ratio was and may not even need to swap the ring gear  if it's too your liking. Say your car has a 3:27, and you want 3:55s; you find a Mustang GT automatic with 3:55s(Not saying this is legit, just hypotheticals). You can leave the ring gear on there.
• Brakes- Personally I think some of the brake options are pricey even for regular brakes(See Napa Police brake kit). For begining and on the cheap you can leave the rotors alone and get pads. I bought Carquest silvers which are made by Wearever(sp?) and stop pretty good with the cheapo rotors I got. They cost me 83ish bucks for all of them.
• Sway bars- To my knowledge the only cars that have two from factory are P71s, LX Sport, Mauraders. There maybe a certain trim Town Car, and I think limos do. Most others only have a front bar. So adding a rear bar or a complete set from a P71 is a big step up in handling. The expensive option is buying the big bars from the like of ADTR.
• Rear control arms- these are going to be money, but you should have some after thise cheap mods. The stamped factory ones and rubber bushings help the car wallow all over the road. There are no front control arm options other than probably some donk kits, maybe low rider.  The rears alone make the world a difference.
• Springs and shocks- Non-P71 owners can get P71 srings and shocks(see this theme of P71 parts making other cars better on the cheap?) if they don't mind a 2" lift. Plus the Gas-A-Just Monroes equiped on most P71 are a progressive rate shock. The other option is S197 parts, specifcally GT500(2012) suspension. The rear springs fit in our spring cups, the rear shocks bolt up, but are slightly narrower in the mounts, requiring one or two washers on each side. Front stuff doesn't fit, but you can cut tge front springs(not advisable by me) to match the rear drop and stiffen them some. The front coilovers on S197 are actually shorter than on the Panthers(weird seeing as Mustangs uses macpherson struts). I think... don't quote me on this... the front springs might fit around the shock body and one or two spring spacers might work. Try it and let me know.
• Watts-link Stud- I probably should add the watts itself, but more importantly the stid is known to break, usually due to a side load like donuts, but they do break. Take that $150 and get that stud. Whenever you do get a better watts, you know it'll be safe. Besides; if it breaks, it could cause the factory arms to bend(cost you money better suited for improvements).
• Dual Exhaust- Pretty much other than the three aformentioned car(see sway bars) have single exhaust. You should be able to source a P71s (non resonated, hell yeahs!) dual exhaust from a junkyard and not need a tune.
• Headlights- Performance isn't just going fast or being quick. A relay mod takes the lights powering them straight off the battery, taking the load off the switch(and thatbpesky LCM) allowing the switch just to be a switch(in this case the LCM be just a switch) and not nees to support powering the lights. The switch simply powers the relay, that turns on the lights. Better bulbs. The relay mod can be good all by itself and we want to really see at night. Bulbs like Sylvania Xtravisions are a brighter white, or you could go with LED bulbs. But please, please do not just put HIDs in a nonHID headlight housing.

That's pretty much modding on the cheap in my opinion. If anybody has anything to add or see a mistake, let me know.